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Ian Rambles
The original journey plan would have seen us arrive
in Taiwan by ferry and would have given us a week in
Taiwan and an opportunity to make trips out of Taipei
to se the countryside and mountains. Because we had
to stop in Okinawa we took the opportunity to spend
a few days there at the cost of our time in Taiwan.
In the end just three nights - and hardly time to get
more than the briefest of impressions.
Fiona's Journal
Thursday August 7th to Saturday Auust 9th
After a quick 8.00am breakfast at Burney's we caught
the MRT to Naha airport and our China Airways flight
to Taiwan. The ferry journey we had originally planned
would have been more fun but this was much faster and
we landed at Taipei airport after just an hour and a
quarter in the air. The airport express bus service
dropped us outside the massive and spralling Taipei
Main Station and our YHA hostel was only a short walk
from there.
It occupies the 13th floor of a 30 storey commercial
tower block, with a department store occuping to bottom
four floors and an underground carpark beneath and I
have no idea what goes on in the other 26 floors. The
three lifts in the lobby are kept very busy anyway.
We have a Starbucks next door and, to my great delight,
they make their coffee twice as strong here as they
do in America and at half the price. We became regulars
there during our 3 day stay.
Our rooms were huge, after Japanese economy of space
they seemed positively extravagant. For some reason
we had a bank of small lockers and a weight lifting
machine in our room so perhaps it doubles as a gym sometimes?
There is a small glass fronted smoking room at the
front of the building which affords fantastic views
over the city. I love to sit there after dark just watching
the crazy city traffic and the bustling metropolis below
us. This is definitely a city that never sleeps. Two
thirds of the vehicles on the road seem to be yellow
cabs and buses and most of the remaining third are small
motorbikes with riders of great courage or great stupidity,
I'm not sure which!
The MRT (metropolitan rapid transport) uses a combination
of underground and elevated railway lines. It is admirably
simple to use, and cheap, and utilises blue circular
discs, like betting chips, in place of cardboard tickets.
When you have completed the journey you have paid for,
you use the disc to get out through the exit gates and
it is not returned to you, so they are constantly reprogrammed
and reused.
We used the MRT to visit the tallest building in the
world (currently), Taipei 101. A superfast elevator
takes you from the fifth floor to the viewing platform
on the 88th floor in 37 seconds. The top 13 floors are
not generally accessible to the public but the views
from the 88th are quite spectacular enough. As well
as the the sprall of the city you can see the beautiful
tropical scenery and impressive mountains beyond. In
the centre of this floor is a massive hydraulic mechanism
for counteracting sway in the upper floors in high winds.
This is one of the high tech solutions that allowed
them to build a tower of this height.
The next day Harry, George and I took the MRT to Taipei
zoo which was well set out, with a great variety of
interesting animals and, for the most part, they were
pretty well housed and cared for with reasonable sized
enclosures.
George charged on ahead as he is inclined to do and
Harry and I kept thinking "we will catch up with
him soon" but we never did. We bought some hot
meat-filled dumplings off a stall and sat and ate them
for our lunch, hoping that George had somehow got behind
rather than ahead of us, but he did not reappear. Then
the afternoon rains came down and, although this had
happened both the previous afternoons, I had come out
completely unprepared. Harry and I were sodden to our
underwear in minutes, while the well-prepared Taiwanese
looked at us askance from under their umbrellas and
plastic ponchos.
I was getting worried about George by then so we continued
to walk round the circuit at speed, ignoring the animals,
when suddenly I heard my name, perfectly pronounced,
echoing from the tannoy system. That's twice in less
than a week that we have necessitated the use of a tannoy!
Harry and I hurried to the Information centre, which
was of course at the very opposite end of this large
zoo to us, and there was George grinning, slightly nervously,
until he had guaged correctly that my over-riding emotion
was relief. He had been made a great fuss of by the
staff and even had his wet hair blow-dried and he came
away with a big bunch of stickers so I hope he doesn't
think that losing us is rather a good scam and start
making a habit of it!
We dripped and squelched our way back onto the MRT
train and felt antisocially soggy to be so closely confined
with other passengers.
We were not in Taiwan long enough to get any real feel
for this country. We did not even attempt the language
and most Taiwanese, in the capital city, seem to speak
and understand enough English for basic transactions.
Taipei is a soaring modern city with an very visible
underbelly of third-worldish dilapidation and poverty
and hand to mouth, street-edge businesses. It does have
a real atmosphere of optimism and energy and fearlessness
however and I enjoyed my short stay there. I was completely
unafraid to go out onto the streets late at night on
my own which I would not say of Reading, for example.
Arthur's Log:
Ate breakfast. Bus, plane, hello Taiwan. Smooth
as can be expected. Finding the hostel was a different
story. After wandering around for half an hour we found
it. To get to the hostel you go round the back of one
huge 24 story skyscraper and in through a marble hall
that looks like something out of the matrix. Were on
the 13th floor and have a fascinating view over the
city. From the smoking room window you can see down
the about 5 intersections and I sit there for hours
watching yellow cap after yellow cabs pass by 100 feet
below.
8th
We spent near all day just to do Taipei 101 (tallest
building in the world). It was amazing. I think the
speed of lift was the best bit it and the 660 ton damper
in the middle was cool but I didn't come back a different
person.
9th
I didn't go out today, just sat in the window and wrote
this.
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