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Ian Rambles
I wasn't confident about treking with my weak knee and
with George and Harry and was concerned that we would
end up holding up a group of young and fit trekers.
I needn't have worried. My knee survived and the boys
enjoyed the walking and were amused by the guides.
The elephants were amazing. They carried us up steep
muddy pathways through the forest without missing a
step while reaching back every few metres to have a
bannana poked up a nostril!
The second day, mostly downhill, gave my knee more
of a testing and it gave way a couple of times and dumped
me on my butt. I was glad to finally reach level ground
and our transport to drive to the bamboo rafting.
The bamboo rafts make one way trips down the river
and its rapids - then are dismantled to be brought back
to the start again as a bundle of big sticks on the
back of a pickup.
Fiona's Journal
We packed a change of clothes each, mosquito repellent,
toothbrushes and swimming gear into our four small day-sacks,
that usefully unzip from our big rucksacks. Then we
had a hearty breakfast before the pick-up truck arrived
to collect us at 9.30am. We had three guides and two
other couples trekking with us and they were all much
younger than Ian and I, so I was a bit worried that
we would hold the party back.
Our first stop was a market, where our guides stocked
up on provisions for us all. This was an hour's drive
out of Chiang Mai and during the course of this journey
we pulled alongside small motorbike parked at the side
of the road and a small child was passed into the driver's
cab through the window! I presume he belonged to one
of our guides and this was a necessary part of their
child-care arrangements because he was then dropped
off with someone at the market.
Another hour's drive took us to the Elephant Farm where
we mounted our elephants,, from a ten foot high mounting
block, and headed off into the tropical forest. This
was such fun and such a wonderful way to view the countryside
that I wished the whole trek was on elephants.
Harry, George and I shared the lead elephant with her
handler sitting, more or less, on top of her head with
his legs dangling down her forehead. She was a gentle,
biddable creature and she would stretch her trunk back
towards us periodically to take a banana from us.
Ian and Arthur's elephant, immediately behind us, was
a real comedian, with attitude. When they ran out of
bananas she started nudging us in the back but when
we tried to pass her one we could not quite reach and
it fell in the mud. Then she started ripping up trunks-full
of vegetation and throwing it back over her head and
her deficient passengers, as if in protest! Luckily
there were more banana stands around the trail route
so Ian bought lots at the next one!
The trail took us steeply uphill, on a narrow and treacherous
path with deep foot-holes in the slippery wet clay soil,
but the elephants never missed their footing and just
plodded slowly and imperturbably on round the half hour
circuit and back down to the starting point. I was sorry
to dismount and leave these endearing creatures, who
have such evident intelligence and character.
While we were enjoying ourselves our lunch ingredients
had been driven to a nearby roadside cafe and transformed
into 12 hot meals for us in individual polystyrene boxes.
After a further short drive and then a twenty minute
walk, involving nothing more taxing than a bamboo bridge
crossing of a small river, we arrived at wooden platform
beside a waterfall. Here, we ate our lunch (really good)
and then swam in the pool beneath the falls. It was
very hot and humid by now so the refreshment of cool
water absolutely revitalised us.
From here the trek proper began. It was continuous
uphill walking from this point, steep in places but
never a hands-and-knees scramble, and the path was well
defined and dry. We were rapidly drenched in sweat again,
despite our trusty Japanese towels refreshed with cold
water at the falls. The path was mostly shaded from
the direct sun by the forest trees and our guides made
hats out of banana leaves for us all. They were very
good at judging our capability and not pushing the pace
too hard and, to my surprise, it was the five of us
stopping periodically to wait for the others.
We had short breaks every half hour or so when sweets
were passed round and water drunk and one of our guides
would use these breaks to entertain the boys with puzzles.
They all involved sticks laid out on the ground and
asking the boys to move a set number of sticks to achieve
a certain result. They were clever, and funny, and I
hope Ian can find a way of showing one or two on line.
It rained suddenly and heavily late in the afternoon,
which was refreshing but made the path a bit slippery
afterwards. We reached our destination about 6.00 in
the evening and it was worth every last step of the
climb. We are staying in a hill tribe village high up
on the side of a mountain and with breath-taking views
across the valley to more distant mountain ranges. We
had sleeping bags, on mats, under mosquito nets, all
laid out ready for us in a big wooden lodge on stilts
and while we sat gazing at the scenery and drinking
a beer or two our supper was cooked for is in the next
door house.
We devoured an excellent meal at a long wooden table
with benches either side, outdoors but under cover.
The sun set early and rapidly, as it does in these latitudes
so by 8.00 it was quite dark. The only lights we could
see across the valley were the very occasional flash
of headlights as a vehicle traversed a mountain road.
We chatted a bit to out fellow trekkers who were, a
very beautiful Swiss girl called Julia, who is a model,
and her boyfriend Philip who is English but they both
live in Barcelona and a glamorous Italian couple called
Dario and Elisa who did not speak much English (and
we speak no Italian). Luckily Julia speaks fluent Italian
as well as perfect English (and presumably also Spanish)
as well as her native tongue. We are definitely the
unbeautiful people in this group!
It soon transpired that what we have in common, as
Europeans, is a strong desire for coffee after our meal
rather than more beer. Our Thai guides seemed a little
surprised by this but gallantly made us round after
round of coffee and tea and even hot chocolate for the
boys. A few people took turns at playing the guitar
(including Arthur) but we had very little common ground
with regards to the songs we knew so it did not turn
into a sing-a-long session. By 9.30 we were all starting
to fade and drifted off to our beds. As I lay there,
half a sleep and listening to the gentle patter of rain
on the banana leaf roof, I thought I am completely
content there is nowhere I would rather be at
this moment. Very Buddhist!
The morning dawned with the valley filled with dense
white cloud below us. It had rained quite heavily overnight
and this made the morning excursion, across a mud-hole
on a slippery and cracked plank of wood, to the dilapidated
shed containing the hole-in-the-ground toilet, rather
interesting.
While breakfast was being prepared, we drank coffee
and watched the white mist rise dramatically out of
the valley and up the wooded mountainside until it cleared
the ridge and become fluffy white clouds in a clear
blue sky.
Pon cut some lengths of bamboo and he and Ale fashioned
extremely effective pop-guns out of them for the boys.
It only took them about twenty minutes to make each
one, and fine tune the exact fit of shaft and barrel,
and they fired pellets of wet paper an amazing distance,
with a very satisfactory crack!
Pon assured us that today's route was easy
(his favourite word) and all downhill. This latter was
more or less true as we followed the course of a river
downhill but downhill is not always easy, in my opinion,
The rocky path was slippery after the nights rain and
required great care and concentration in places. Ian's
dodgey knee gave out on him twice, the second time rather
spectacularly! It was a tiring hour and a half's descent
to our first stopping point.
This was a really dramatic waterfall which formed a
curtain across the front of a wide cave in the mountainside.
The force of the water as you dashed through it into
the pool was intense!
A further hour's walk took us through paddy fields
and banana plantations and down onto the road where
our truck was waiting to take us to our lunch. We completed
the trek by bamboo rafting down a fairly gentle stretch
of the river and then the long drive home.
We arrived back at the BRC, tired but rather pleased
with ourselves. I was very proud of George and Harry
who hardly grumbled or moaned at all, although they
moan all the way when I take them on a five mile dog
walk!
Arthur's Log:
We took a ride in the back of a pickup along the mountain
roads for an hour to get to the elephant park.
There is something amusing about putting a banana into
a elephants nostril and watching him flip it round and
throw it into his mouth. The ride was amazing. The elephants
they were carrying us up 45 degree slopes through thick
thick forest.
Each elephant had a distinct personality. The one Mum,
Harry and George was riding in front was clearly the
elder and more mature of the group. The one me and Dad
were on behind was the opposite, when he didn't have
his trunk back over his head demanding bananas he was
trying to steal some from Mum on the one in front, or
trying to get the the other elephants tail. When we
both ran out of bananas he decided it was time to cool
off and started hurling mud back over his head, plastering
us.
We started the walk and after an hour we stopped at
a stream. Most of us went for a swim and the current
was very very strong, which just made it fun.
We are with four other people. An Italian couple called
Dario and Elisa and a Swiss model called Julia and her
boyfriend Philip. She speaks Swiss, Italian, English,
German, French and thats just the ones i know about.
She said she wants to master accents as well but she
allready spoke it so well that the thing that made her
stick out was that she spoke english too well.
Pon, every time we stop, has been making little puzzles
for us on the ground out of sticks. They're good and
always with a querk to the the solution that gives us
all a laugh.
We finally got to a bambo cabin. We talked and ate
untill we went to bed.
Got up and had a very relaxed start. While we ate breakfast
Pon and some of the other guys at the cabin started
hacking away at bits of bamboo. They made pop guns!
They were really loud as well - enough to make mum jump
and Harry put his fingers in his ears. We mucked around
with them for a bit. then doodled down the valley to
the steam and an excellent waterfall. Most of us went
for a swim and we over stayed a little having a shower
in the fall. The water was so heavy and powerfull that
you couldn't stand in the center without falling over,
disapearing under water and not reappearing for another
15 yards down the stream.
No more riddles from Pon today, but some cool plant
leaves, first one was a cupped leaf that, when placed
face down on one hand then slapped with the other, made
a very load bang. Next was a leaf that when rubbed between
thumb and index finger bled blood red sap that stained
my fingers for a few days. Finally was a very normal
looking leaf but Pon picked it and carefully split the
stalk with his nail, leaving just 2 fibers. He squeesed
the leaf a little then blew. Bubbles came out by the
milion they were small but so many of them!
We made the final strech through a field of banana
trees, the pickup was waiting for us to take us to our
next event.
Bambo rafting. Six or seven enormous pieces of bamboo
strapped together. For the first ten minutes we just
flowed gently downstream and didn't get bashed about
at all but there was a sudden change where it went into
a narrow fast moving patch.
The man with the stick at the front of our raft was
too busy talking to us and didn't notice. He didn't
even see untill we pointed out the large rock wich we
proceeded to smack into. That was the first time he
fell off - but not the last. We got the sort of final
excitment which was a meter and a bit waterfall followed
by rapids. We came over the crest of the fall and sploshed
down into the lower pool no problem but he turned back
to check we were ok and we went headlong into.... I
would say rock but it was bigger, more like a wall.
He disappeared under water and the raft was still moving
and he almost didn't come up in time to grab hold of
the raft.
We got back, ate, talked and got some sleep.
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