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Ian Rambles
After trekking in Thailand I knew that my leg was highly
likely to give way on some of the steep downhills I
found described online. Without parapets or guardrails
a tumble which left me with an amusingly muddy butt
in the Thai highlands could well involve a fall of hundreds
of feet - so, with George and Harry, I opted for the
shorter section of the wall and left Fi and Arthur to
be intrepid!
We took a chair lift up to the wall and were "adopted",
like Fi and Arthur, by a couple of souvenir sellers.
They kept us company for several towers, insisting on
holding all our hands over the steeper bits. They left
us when I made it clear that we were going to sit and
have our picnic while we waited for Fi and Arthur to
walk towards us.
To be sat "on the wall" after having seen
it so often in photographs was awe inspiring. The work
involved in its creation is immense - and the life of
the soldiers who once manned it difficult to imagine.
Fiona's Journal
Today we finally met The Great Wall of China. That was
how it felt somehow as if this Wonder of
the World is some hugely famous personality that
we have read about, heard about and seen pictures of,
all our lives, and have finally got to meet in person.
Unlike most celebrities it did not disappoint. In fact
it exceeded my expectations.
The expedition did not start all that auspiciously.
We were picked up at 6.00am in an elderly minibus and
within half an hour it was belching forth steam and
hot engine smells from beneath the dashboard. Half our
drinking water supplies were emptied into the radiator
and we continued on our way without further problems.
Having cavalierly condemned all Chinese drivers as adolescent,
our driver for this trip was very good and relatively
patient, despite his youth, and at least two dogs owe
their lives to his quick reactions.
It took over three hours to reach Jinshanling where
Arthur and I and a Spanish couple were to start our
10k stretch of the wall. After our early start and stressful
drive I felt more in need of a kip than a hike! Ian,
Harry and George continued in the minibus as far as
Simatai where they did a 4k section of wall.
It was a warm day and we were already sweaty by the
time we had completed the steep climb up onto the top
of the wall. However, the amazing views across the mountains,
and of the wall itself following its serpentine route
along all the highest peaks and ridges, inspired us
as did the cheerful company of a young women called
Jo and her friend whose name I never did grasp. They
offered to be our guides and companions to the midway
point in return for which we agreed to buy ten pounds
worth of souvenirs from them before we parted.
The first fifteen towers, half the total distance,
took a steadily upward gradient but between each tower
the wall goes sharply downhill and then equally steeply
up again to the next tower so there are no nice flat
sections to stroll along. In some places these slopes
were at 40 degrees and stepped, in other places they
were nearly 70 degrees with no steps and those were
a real sweaty scramble, whether heading up or down.
At each tower we stopped for a few minutes to catch
our breath and drink some water and Jo gave me lessons
in Chinese. I learnt quite a few words and phrases during
that walk but almost the only one I can remember now
is zhu baa which means Let's go!,
to be said with enthusiasm!
In some places parts of the wall have fallen away completely
and we had to find our way across the remaining ledges
and rubble and at one very crumbling tower Jo lead us
on a short cut across the mountain which bypassed it
altogether.
After Jo and friend left us at tower 15 the trend was
generally downhill and a refreshing breeze had sprung
up so Arthur and made good and cheerful progress on
our own. Some of the most spectacular views were in
this section too, which inspired me onwards. We reached
the bottom of the river valley and the suspension bridge
in good shape, planning to stroll nonchalantly back
to rejoin our party, looking as if we had just been
to the corner shop for milk. Then it dawned on us that
this was not, in fact the end of our hike. We had to
climb two towers up the opposite side of the valley
to reach the others and these sections were amongst
the steepest we had met. We were almost defeated at
this point, and if there had been any alternative way
out of the valley we might have been, but there wasn't
so, of course, we managed it. We did not arrive looking
as if we had just strolled to the corner shop though!
We were speedily and completely revived by a zip-wire
ride down the river valley and across a dam to a landing
stage from which a small boat then took us downriver
to where our minibus was parked. We arrived just as
Ian and smaller boys were descending by cable car from
their end-point.
We were all impressed by our encounter with The Wall.
It deserves its status as one of the wonders of the
world. I like the fact that it is not being conserved
with that British stay off and don't touch
approach that we have to our ancient monuments. You
can climb on, and fall off, any part of it you want
to and it is used very casually, as a communal resource,
by the local mountain villagers. They gather in the
watchtowers, some with a few souvenirs or drinks to
sell, but mostly to chat with neighbours and play cards
as far as I could see.
Arthur's Log:
Today we set out early for the Great Wall of
China. Me and mum opted for the 10k walk while the others
chose the 4 k version. I can't remember being that tired
ever ever ever in my whole life.
Usually 10k is nothing, barely more than a pleasant
stroll with the dog - but this was not easy. By the
time we were half way I was seriously worrying that
we had missed it. The wall just goes up and down up
and down for ever, the steepest bits going up at 70
degree angle with 2.5" steps with only a sliver
to stand on each time. I really can not exspress how
tired i was by the end of it, we had to walk 30 towers
and on the last 3 I gave out for 15 minutes, my system
just gave up and I collapsed and after that it took
forever to do the last little bit.
If I can stop talking about how tired I was for minute
then I will say it was AMAZING!! I can't even express
how amazing it was! Just phenominal! Nothing I have
ever seen has come remotely close the awsomeness of
the wall never ever ever.
The final stretch looked like it was going to be pleasantly
down hill but after a drop into a steep valley we ended
with a steep climb.
A pleasnt suprise ending though. There was a zip line
all the way down to the waters edge, then a boat to
the car park.
We got back, I TOOK THE LIFT and fell asleep from 5
that afternoon to 9 the next day.
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